Saturday, 1 March 2008

Day 24

Day 24

24 is the smallest number with exactly 8 divisors and it is also a semiperfect number.

Another couple of days of rain/drizzle meant another couple of days of rest. Fortunately I spent the time finishing the climbing wall at Maisonbleau. The thing has just grown and grown like a cancer and it's at the final stage of evolution now. I did a few deadhangs yesterday and a tiny bit of climbing to loosen up for today (and to test the new section of wall). Luckily the wall held fast and I was able to head out today.

It seems like I'm spending way too much time at the Cuvier areas, and missing out on the more esoteric venues. I kind of feel like I'm the guy who just goes to Plantation and never anywhere else, except that Cuvier has more 5 star problems than I can count and Rempart happens to be quick drying so it's a win-win situation. Early afternoon was spent watching/spotting Sara faff about on Orange problems and then fail on a red problem that was so far beneath her. Things weren't going great, but I had a plan for her... We walked over to La Marie Rose, 6A, and she immediately started going on about how hard it was and how other good climbers she knew couldn't do it. After a pep talk about winners only think W-I-N (and there is most definitely an I in win) she started her attempts. Soon enough she had a good sequence but was struggling with a long reach right at the top. I knew that if she could only do that final reach she would have this problem wrapped up. After a few goes trying different beta we'd settled on the way and only a few goes afterwards she was stood on top! It highlighted that with the right beta, the right motivation, and the right approach people can climb things a little harder than they think. Sara and I knew she could climb 6A in font, but La Marie Rose is a super classic, the forest's first 6A climbed in 1946 by Rene Ferlet. That is a benchmark and no one will ever tell you that it's a soft touch. I'm really happy for her, and I think that attaining something like that is great motivation for Sara. People who think positively will always climb positively and will always get more done. I have no doubt about that (and neither should you).

After she had crushed we moved over to the Carnage area so I could get warmed up and I harboured desires to get all the problems I did previously on video. First up was Carnage, then Berezina, then I tried the Carnage-Berezina Combo Assis but fell off in Berezina cause the holds were a tiny bit greasy and I was a little bit pumped. I didn't want to waste skin so I quickly did the stand start so I had it on video and then I had 3 goes on Apotheose. Damn I want to do this problem! First go my fingers were less than 1cm from the hold. 1cm!!!! I suppose that is about the distance I am way from doing 1-5-9 as well... if only I'd trained harder. If only I could do 1-5-9 every go then I could crush Apotheose! The next 2 goes were horrific. It felt like the second hold had suddenly turned into Teflon and my hands were covered in oil. I gave up, we packed up, and legged it up to Rempart. I wanted to get on Kheops before the sun set. The first move (which I originally flashed) was feeling rather hard, mainly because my ring and pinky fingers were slightly thin and the right hand hold isn't very good (using the sloper not the crimp). I mainly wanted to try the next move anyway (the crux I think), and luckily I had brought Sara along for a small push. I had one more go from the start but my right hand ripped off rather violently drawing blood from 3 knuckles and flinging me down the hill. Thankfully Sara's slender yet powerful arms just about kept my head off the rocks. I then started trying the next move, which is a move that perplexes me greatly. It's hard to explain, and I don't really need to, but it's a move that requires intricate body position and exceptional balance (with the regulatory level of power too). I got into the right position, but my plumb line must have been slightly out as I couldn't reach up statically enough. I'll find the position though, and when I do, Kheops will be Keithops. My skin started getting really jaded and I fell off the right hand hold a couple more times. It was turning black and my skin wasn't playing nice so I gave up for the day. Luckily it's going to rain tomorrow (so say the weather Gods at Meteo France) so I can get some skin back and then head out Monday for more skin sapping action.

We watched a wonderful round orange sunset disappear behind the horizon and then headed home for a yummy dinner.

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